Venice Venice Venice!
What a truly amazing place. I've heard that it is one of the places in the world that really is what you expect it to be. And that is true. It is a city floating on a lagoon. There are boats and palaces and churches everywhere.
But I'm getting all ahead of myself, let me start from the beginning.
I left on Friday and flew to Amsterdam and then on to Venice from there. I had a funny moment when I got to Venice and I was expecting to go through a border check, but didn't. It wasn't until later that I realized Italy and the Netherlands are both part of the European Union, and I had gone through the border in Amsterdam. It was a little disappointing not to get a passport stamp in Italy, but it did save me the time of waiting in that line - so that was nice.
I arrived around 10pm, and my Aunt met me in the airport. The Marco Polo airport is one the mainland, so we had to take a bus to a boat and then a boat to Venice. It was very dark, but so exciting going into Venice only with the lights of the buildings lighting the way.
It took us about an hour to get to the Bed & Breakfast we stayed at. A really nice place, our room had a little balcony overlooking a canal.
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View from our balcony |
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Looking the other way from the balcony |
It turned out that we were right along what seemed to be a major thoroughfare for gondolas. So on Saturday morning, one of the first things I heard was a gondolier singing as he rowed along outside the window (this was actually the only time I heard a gondolier singing).
We headed out into the city pretty early on Saturday morning. We wandered in the direction of Piazza San Marco, one of the most popular tourist spots in the city. Along the way there were tons of shops selling Venetian masks, which were all really neat to look at:
Walking into Piazza San Marco was quite impressive, as all the streets up to that point had been quite small and the campos (squares) we had come across were also fairly small. But Piazza San Marco just opens up into this huge square with the St. Mark's Basilica at one end, along with the Doge's Palace, and the campanile and clock tower on either side.
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The Campanile in Piazza San Marco (this fell down in 1902 and had to be rebuilt) |
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Me in front of St. Mark's Basilica in Piazza San Marco |
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Aunt B. and St. Mark's Basilica |
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St. Mark's Basilica (Closeup) |
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Piazza San Marco (facing away from the basilica) |
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The Clock of the Clock Tower |
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The Clock Tower in Piazza San Marco |
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The Doge's Palace |
We went into St. Mark's basilica, it was a bit crowded but very neat.
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Saint Mark's Basilica |
We spent a while in the Basilica and then decided to wander around the streets on 'our' side of the Grand Canal. A little bit on the geography of Venice for those of you who are unsure (as I was before I went). The island is shaped like a fish (seriously), it's split in half on a diagonal by the Grand Canal, which is where the city boats run (like any other cities' buses, except boats). The boats also run around the outside of the island. Then there are a bunch of small canals running like streets through Venice, which are too small for the city boats (but gondolas and other smaller boats travel down them and there are bridges here and there to get across them when walking around).
'Our' side of the Canal was on the side with San Marco (near the bottom of the fish) as this was where our B&B was. There are a couple of other islands surrounding Venice, including Lido (which I will talk about a bit later).
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Gondoliers chillin' by the Lagoon, one of them is texting which we found rather amusing |
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Aunt B by the Lagoon |
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Me by the Lagoon |
We took a city boat to the Rialto Bridge, which is famous for the stores/markets on and around it:
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Me on the city boat (I'm on a boat annnnd it's going fast annnd - little Lonely Island humor there). |
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Rialto Bridge |
We spent a bit of time on and around the bridge before walking back in the general direction of San Marco. Along the way we found some delicious gelato:
Mmmmm...mini version of the Baguette Project: The Gelato Project! (I'm getting so creative with these names...somebody stop me).
One of my favorite things about Venice was just the wandering around. The whole city has a really cool vibe to it, it's like walking through a place that is hovering on the edge of reality. I think it has to do with the fact that its very nature is one of blurring borders; it is a city, but it's also floating on the water. Not quite land but not quite water.
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For instance, there were many doors that led directly into the water. |
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And staircases that led to the water |
It's a rather surreal place. All the sounds are muffled by the closeness of the buildings and the water. The sound of cars that I've been so accustomed to my whole life was nowhere to be found. When we were in the little paths between the buildings and came out onto a canal, sometimes the only thing we could heard was the swishing of an oar, or the call of a seagull or pigeon.
It was very easy to get lost in the small alleyways and little passages, but that was the fun of it. I liked walking through a little passageway and all of a sudden coming out onto a canal or into a campo (which strangely enough means 'field' because there actually used to be grass in the campos, but now they are all more like squares, with stone covering any grass that might have once been).
Saturday night we went to a concert at San Vidal Church. The group - called Interpreti Veneziani - was fantastic. They played Vivaldi's Four Seasons, a Tartini cello concerto and Saint-Saens 'Danza Macabra' They were great, and it was also a funny concert as they played extremely fast, and I mean
fast. The concert including an encore was only a little over an hour long, I would guess that normally playing all those pieces plus an encore would usually take at least two hours. It was quite impressive, I think the word I used at the time was 'efficient.' Probably one of the best concerts I've ever been to.
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Concert at San Vidal. For the encore the bass player was the soloist, they even let him sit in the middle. |
Then we headed back to the B&B.
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It was quite dark |
At 5am on Sunday morning we were awoken by a hit-the-deck-grab-your-life-jackets-we're-all-going-to-die-duck-and-cover kind of siren going off all through the streets. The owner of the B&B had warned us that Sunday morning was a high tide morning (meaning that much of the sidewalks would be under water - including Piazza San Marco). But she hadn't warned us that there would be a siren going off to warn everyone else. So after several moments of contained-inside-my-head panic I decided that must be what it was. And my aunt and I, who were both of course awake, both agreed on that and spent the next hour or so making 'we forgot to purchase our life jackets in the gift shop' jokes until we fell back to sleep for a while.
Once we got up for real after the alarming alarm of the early morning, we waited a little while so that the water would be gone (it only lasts from about 8am to 10am according to the B&B owner). Then we headed out on a mission to get to the Accademia Gallerie - an art museum. We spent an hour or so poking around there, looking at all the Italian paintings (many of the pieces used to be in churches I believe). Then we headed to the Guggenheim collection, another art collection this time of mostly modernist art including Picasso, Dali, Pollock, Duchamp, Klee, Calder and many more. That was very neat to see, especially as much of it matched up with what I'm currently studying in my Modernism class at Aberdeen. Gotta love those class-real life connections.
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The Guggenheim collection Garden |
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Calder Sculpture "Three-Colored Dog" |
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The Guggenheim Collection building from a boat on the Grand Canal |
Later, after all the art, we decided to take a boat ride and ended up going out to Lido. Lido is well-known for its beaches during the summer. Apparently it is also a popular place to live as the island has cars, unlike Venice and the other surrounding islands.
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The floating little house is a city boat stop |
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On the boat to Lido - the sun decided to come play for a minute |
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Looking towards Lido from the boat |
Our last major stop of the day was the Basilica Santa Maria Gloriosa Dei Frari. Of all the places we went while in Venice, this was my absolute favorite. It is a breathtaking basilica, the architecture, the art, the whole thing. When we went it was also very quite there were probably ten or fifteen other people in the whole place and it's giant. You couldn't take photos inside, but look it up on google, the photos they have on there don't do it justice, but it'll give you an idea of how big it is and what it looks like.
I'm not a religious person, but the only way I can think to describe the experience of being in the Basilica Frari was spiritual. At the front, behind the alter is Titian's Assumption, which he painted for this spot. I have honestly never seen anything like it. All I can say is, if you are ever in Venice, go to this basilica.
Monday morning I had to head back to Scotland. When we walked out of the B&B we found out that it was another high tide morning. So we took off our socks and shoes and walked through the flooded sidewalks to get to Piazza San Marco where we had to catch the boat to get to the airport. Even Piazza San Marco was partially flooded, it looked beautiful though with the reflections of all the buildings in the water and the blue sky:
I arrived back in Aberdeen after many boats, buses and planes. I was greeted by this sight, which definitely helped ease me back after losing the beauty of Venice:
I guess Aberdeen is pretty nice too :)
Alrighty, that's it for Venice. This upcoming weekend I will be in London so stay tuned...
Until next time, be well.